Fortuny Pleating
Fortuny pleats are nice and crisp pleats that are set in silk fabric. This pleating technique was first discovered by the Italian fashion designer, Mariano Fortuny in the early periods of the 20th century. The original pleating process that he used during that time remains to be hidden and not totally understood this time.
Fortuny's textiles and garment incorporated history, art and anthropology. By blending different dyes, he was able to create unique luminous colors. He also helped bring back the craft of pleating fabric which artistically symbolizes the beautiful reflection of sun's rays to the earth. Fortuny also developed his personalized interpretation of this craft and registered his very own heated pleating device in the year 1909. It was during 1901 to 1933 that he registered a total of 22 patents, all are related to garments and printing techniques. Because of prolific artistic pursuits, Fortuny was able to develop printed etchings, invent a kind of photography paper, bind books, designed various lamps & furniture and also maintain an enormous private library. His own artistic creations are now being displayed at the ground floor of his palazzo.
Echoing his immense knowledge on the textile industry, Fortuny created his wonderful and imaginative fabric manipulations through several printed and applied methods which gave him the opportunity to experiment. His undulating silk, vertical pleating, and cotton yardage brought forth natural elasticity that flows effortlessly over the female contour forms. Delicate glass beads were beginning to be placed on silk cording and also hand stitched on seams, hems, and necklines giving birth to the ancient Greek styles of integrating metals into fabric. His method was more of piece dye cuts frequently layering aniline dyes for that random and transparent irregularity in clothing design.
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